3D Modeling and 3D Printing (week 7)

There is a dual purpose for printing a 3D model.

1. Since he shape of the lamp is organic, the 3D print can provide the quickest, cheapest and most accurate  parts to test the final shape and size of the Synapse lamp

2. The parts will then be used to create a silicon mold for the final resin part.

Step I: Making final design adjustments in Rhinos Software.

After making a quick model from clay, testing some initial renderings, and researching and purchasing electrical parts, some adjustments are made to the final design:

1. Reduce the lamp bottom to 3 parts. So the final lamp will have 6 parts.

2. Increase the diameter volume of the lamp so it can fit the metal cord and all lighting components.

Step II: Preparing the 3D model in Rhinos before print

1. Divide each of the lamp resin parts into separate files. (a total of 6 Rhino files) 

2. Prepare each file for conversion in Rhinos

• Check edges (command analysis - edge tools - check edges) 
• Diagnostic Analysis for a valid object (command analysis - diagnostics - check)
• Setting parameters for a NURBS object (command mesh - from NURBS object

Diagnostic Analysis 

3. Covert each file into STL file.  

4. Prepare a parts map to correspond with each part.

Step III: Send to Printer

I had access to two printing machines, and very lucky to have the help of my classmate Ex and teacher assistant Poom, who both looked after and monitored the printing process on my behalf. 

The printing itself is time consuming. And there are many variables that affect the time and quality of the print, such as: the design of the model, the size of the machine, the quality of the filament, the machine setting, room temperature, and humidity levels. 

For the first time printing, it is really a process of trial and error and some parts had to be printed several times. 

By the end of this step, we successfully printed parts 2, 3, 4, and 6. Since parts 5 and 6 mirror parts 2 and 3 respectively, it is not necessary to print them, unless they are damaged later on during the process of making a mold. The base, part #1, which is also the biggest of all parts, was more complicated, and after a few attempts to print, it will be printed again at a later stage.

Machine #1, printed by Ex

This machine is the larger of the two and we used green colored filament. 

The first part we chose to print is the smallest one, part #4. The machine calculates approximately 6 hours of printing time. (part 2 estimated at 12 hours; part 3 at 18 hours). This made me quickly realize that 3D printing is a process that can take days. Even though the time of print can be reduced by the machine setting, it is wise to allocate enough time for printing trials and errors. Also, it is advisable to choose a time that can easily supervise the printing, or at least check it often. It is convenient to let the printer run through the night. However, it can prove risky sometime, as you might just wake up to a tangled mountain of filament (which happened to us).

After several attempts and machine adjustments, we successfully print parts 2,3, and 6)

Ex, setting up the machine

Hooking up the filament

The Base, an attempt. 

Part # 4, almost at completion

Machine #2, at CIDI printed by TA Poom

The school machine available to use is slightly smaller, using a grey color filament. 

We intend to print the base of the lamp, part #1. But first we test the printing process by printing part #3. Part #3 is the synapse head of the lamp, so it is good to have a spare part. In our first attempt, we let the machine run over night. But at some point, the filament gets dis-attached, and the printing stops. This could be due to various factors. And one of the factors might have been the movement of the machine. The second attempt is done during the day, supervised often, and the printing is successful. The part comes out very smooth and solid.

Now we are ready to print the base. But when importing the STL base file into the printer's computer, we quickly realize that the base is too big for the machine and needs to be reduced significantly.  In order to fit the machine, I make a new 3D model of the base slicing into several parts. (which I plan to glued together). The larger parts are hollowed out in order preserve material and reduce printing time. But this created new challanges. Probably cutting the base reduced its stability and balance to maintain itself through the printing process, and the filament simply collapsed. 

To keep the base whole for printing, I slightly adjust the final design of the lamp base, reducing it's diameter so it can fit as a whole onto machine #1 to print next.

Poom, Sending the file to the machine hooked computer

Poom, supervising the print

Part 3, a successful print

The base, an attempt